You’re walking through the convention, surrounded by gorgeous costumes, when you spot your hero leaning up against the wall. He’s tall, his costume accurate down to every stitch, and that spikey wig looks so real you swear it’s really him. He flicks some strands from his face, looking bored, and you get ready to jot down your cellphone number and stab it through his gunblade. That’s when his male co-star walks over and plants one on him and your buff hero turns out to be a heroine possessing a trilling soprano voice.

This is nothing unusual. In fact, this scenario is so common, it’s typical.

Sariena and Kimberly as Roxas and Sora, the male heroes from Kingdom Hearts II. Photo by Ms.Saturday at DeviantART

“Crossplay”—cosplaying as someone of the opposite sex—has become so general in the world of cosplay that it’s typically not even defined anymore. At least, that is, if you’re a girl. While it is by no means limited to female-to-male, males who choose to dress as female characters still tend to get a lot of raised eyebrows. While females, on the other hand, usually don’t get a second glance. Why?

There are a lot of reasons why girls crossplay. The number one reason remains, however, universal: they simply dress up as a character they like. Other reasons tend to have a deeper explanation.

Gender roles as defined by society have changed very little since the dawn of civilization. While women have made great strides within the past century all over the world, most societies still put value in traditional roles of males are superior and females are not. Women in popular media are generally objectified, often portrayed as idealistic images that are unrealistic. All women are subject to the psychological pressure of being less than perfect in the eyes of society simply because they do not appear like the expected ideal. This can often lead to all kinds of disorders, ranging from self-harm to social impediments.

Males, however, usually are treated to the most character development—and imperfection is usually widely accepted. While it is not to say males are immune from idealistic standards, today’s female demographic usually find themselves relating to these characters more than female ones because they represent characteristics that have surpassed gender boundaries.

Sariena, who enjoys cosplaying as male co-star Roxas from Kingdom Hearts II, comments, “Most of the time I notice most girl characters are made out to be ‘damsels in distress.’ Like myself, some cosplayers aren’t attracted to that kind of character. So they seek out ones that are more fitting to their own self.”

Serene H. as Jin and Nicole S. as Mugen from Samurai Champloo. Photo by Edward Liu.

It is not only the personalities that women find themselves drawn more to, but they usually feel more comfortable in the male costumes rather than female ones, even if they like a particular female role. Women in both western and eastern media are usually wearing tight clothing that sometimes shows off more skin than public decency laws generally allow. Throw that together with aforementioned idealized female body types—usually large bosoms and tiny waists—and many women find it very difficult to wear female costumes.

With all this in mind, it is no surprise that women have become very adept in “wearing the pants” for their fandoms. In fact, women tend to cosplay as males so convincingly that the scenario this article opens with happens more often than not. So, how do they do it?

At least with Japanese anime, manga, and video games, a lot of male characters actually possess very feminine features. Particularly for males portrayed in “shojo”—girls—stories, boys and men have slender profiles and large eyelashes with dewy eyes. Younger, immature male characters are usually void of muscular figures and possess rounder features. Women typically do not have to do much work in order to believably pass themselves off as these types of characters. But for those who really want to “make a man” out of themselves, there is a degree of effort and even research required to really make their cosplay a success like any other. Otherwise, you’re just a chick wearing your boyfriend’s costume.

Perhaps the most notable feature that women possess and men lack is a chest. And we’re not talking about pecs, either. Even the smallest of women can stand out when they’re supposed to be a 13 year-old boy. Therefore, any female crossplayer is usually very familiar with binding themselves. While there are plenty of girls who choose not to go that far, those that really want to look the part and are serious about their costume often put up with some serious pain.

The most common form of binding is the use of Ace bandages. A lot of women, however, don’t know how to properly wear them and this can result in some serious discomfort and even injury. When going this route, you should always wear something under the bandage. I recommend a good sports bra that already does a fair job of binding you down. Pick one that fits you properly and offers good back support; the best for binding are ones that don’t tailor to your shape. Next, the bandage or wrap you choose should be of the widest width you can find—ideally, about eight inches wide or more. As you begin to wrap yourself, start just under your bust and gradually move upward, gently pressing down with your free hand. It may take a couple of attempts to get just right, but in the end, you should never wrap tightly enough to restrict movement or proper breathing. Many women tend to make their binding too tight. In my opinion, cosplay is not worth your health and depending on your size, there’s only so much you can do.

Britt as Pit from Super Smash Bros. Brawl. Photo by The Orlando Sentinel.

Some people use duct tape to bind themselves. DO NOT DO THIS! I couldn’t warn anyone more against doing so. Not only is it a pain (literally and figuratively) to remove, but if you wrap too tightly, you could seriously endanger yourself if you need to take it off quickly. I’ve heard many stories of girls doing this, sometimes when not even wearing anything underneath the tape, and they have become light headed and passed out. Remember, cosplay has a tendency to cause rapid dehydration, especially while wearing a wig. It is even more important to keep yourself well hydrated when you’re bound. Even worn properly, binding takes a toll, and should be removed and readjusted after a few hours.

A recent discovery I made last year has been “life changing” as far as binding is concerned and if you plan to crossplay, and do so often, it would be in your best interest to invest in a binding shirt. A company called Underworks sells a product they call “Drag King Chest Binders” and they market it specifically for the purpose women crossplayers use it for. They sell a few different styles, but the Double Front Compression Shirt is the most popular and most effective. It’s virtually invisible under costumes and comfortable enough to wear an entire day without a problem. Some women have claimed to be taken down as much as three cup sizes; personally, I have a small chest, so coupled with a sports bra—which I recommend still wearing for skin protection—I’m essentially flat as a board. It’s fairly inexpensive and has become invaluable for my crossplays and everyone else I know who does as well. Be sure to follow the directions for ordering, however, as getting your size correct is important. It can be difficult to put on, and I find I have to step into it and pull it up. It’s near-impossible, when sized correctly, to take it on and off over your head.

Kris as The Millennium Earl from D.Gray-man. Photo by Troy of Gungnir Studios.

Once the art of binding is accomplished, there are other measures women can take to further cause “gender confusion” and really make their crossplay a success. Make-up can be just as important to a male costume as it is to a female one. You just have to learn how to apply it correctly to make the distinction. Aside from basic foundation, eyeliner can make your eyes appear deeper and rounder. Men tend to have thicker eyebrows, too. Pay close attention to the features your characters possess and practice applying make-up to simulate those characteristics.

Another tip? “Watch guys,” says Sariena. “The way they walk, act, talk, etc.” Men tend to walk with their pelvis shifted forward, while women do so more with their shoulders. Small little details like these not only complete the illusion, but they also help you get more into character.

There may be many reasons why women crossplay, but when it all boils down to it, all that matters is that they enjoy their character. And as long as Japan continues to feed us with “beautiful boys”, beautiful women all over the world will continue to gender bend.

For your amusement at my expense, check out this video clip featuring my own adventures in learning how to “be a man.” Man Walking

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